Plant-Based, Low-Carbon Denim Comes to Climate Week NYC

A new collaboration highlights how stakeholders across the denim supply chain can work together to produce plant-based, low-carbon denim.

The project brings together the expertise and technologies of The Lycra Company, AI-powered crop evolution company Avalo, Pakistani denim mill Neela by Sapphire Fibers Ltd. and Italian textile chemistry provider Soko. Together, they created Naturalls, a denim collection that addresses water scarcity, energy consumption and other challenges facing the sustainable textile industry.

“Every piece of clothing starts in a field, with a farmer and a plant working harder than most people realize to keep up with a changing climate. Naturalls is our way of putting that reality in front of the designers and product developers who buy and build with denim every day. We are proving that sustainability in this industry doesn’t have to be a tradeoff between innovation and impact,” said Tricia Carey, Avalo’s chief commercial officer.

Ebru Ozaydin, The Lycra Company’s product category director, denim and ready to wear, added that the collaboration “demonstrates what can happen when innovation happens across the entire value chain, from the field to the finished garment.”

The “buttery soft” fabrics are made with a blend of Avalo’s Low-Footprint Cotton, which uses zero irrigation, 75 percent less fertilizer, and creates half the emissions of conventionally grown cotton, and The Lycra Company’s Renewable Lycra fiber. The spandex has 70 percent renewable content, reducing the fiber’s carbon footprint by up to 45 percent compared to equivalent Lycra fiber made with fossil-based resources.

Neela developed the spinning, weaving, and garment-making processes for the collection. “As the mill behind this collection, our intent was to create something bigger, smarter, and more natural. This collection is designed in a way that represents innovate fiber solutions and eco-friendly manufacturing with a strong focus on fabric aesthetics, hand feel and visual appeal,” said Zeeshan Ahmed, Neela general manager, business development.

Soko then applied two of its proprietary technologies, Hydrogel and Rare, to the collection’s finishing process. Hydrogel converts water into a gel, allowing multiple finishing treatments to be performed in a single bath. The process reduces water consumption by up to 85 percent, energy use by up to 68 percent, and processing time by up to 50 percent. Rare is Soko’s collection of naturally derived mineral pigments that use a natural binder to create authentic, timeless shades.

“Garment finishing plays an essential role in shaping both the look and the environmental impact of denim. It is also a stage where significant amounts of water, energy and time have traditionally been consumed,” said Luca Braschi, Soko’s marketing and technology manager. “With Naturalls, we wanted to show how innovation in finishing can significantly reduce these resources while preserving the authentic look, feel and character that make denim unique. This project demonstrates how every stage of the value chain can contribute to creating a product that is not only more responsible, but also truly desirable.”

Labor Made Inc. owner Gordon Muir designed the collection as a tribute to the farmers whose work makes the denim industry possible. Naturalls includes work pants, jackets, aprons and other workwear-inspired pieces. Muir said he drew inspiration from the practical silhouettes worn in the fields where the fiber begins. “Our vision was to develop a new take on functional workwear, inspired by the workers who do the unsung jobs, the farmers who created the fiber used in the collection—these are the real heroes,” he said.

Nautralls will debut at a dedicated event during Climate Week NYC from Sept. 20-27.