Charlotte barbecue chef is using crops that are resilient to climate from N.C. farmer
CHARLOTTE, N.C. — Black-eyed peas, also known as southern peas, are a longtime Southern tradition. For chef Holden Sasser, he’s making hoppin’ john and starts his with pork.
What You Need To Know
- People in North Carolina are working to combat the impacts weather leaves on crops, with nonprofit groups, like the Utopian Seed Project
- The goal is to contribute to stronger food systems
- A chef in Charlotte is benefiting from crops that are sustainable in harsh weather
The southern peas he’s working with are a little different. They’re a climate-resilient crop.
“I think the color is really pretty on these,” Sasser said. “You can see they have a little more variety of color within them.”
He says they’re also a little smaller than other black-eyed peas.
What makes them resilient is crossbreeding. Farmers test out varieties and the ones with the highest yields and best ability to handle extreme weather make the cut.
Ben Geiger is a farmer based in Denton, North Carolina, where Sasser gets his southern peas. Geiger collaborates with part of a larger group of growers in the Utopian Seed Project — a nonprofit started in Asheville — working to create a more resilient food system.
“Having more resilient varieties is definitely more important as we see more weather extreme events,” Geiger said.
Back in the kitchen, Sasser says working with these farmers is more economical. Higher yields means better prices and environmental benefits too.
“We’re getting it locally, it’s traveling a shorter distance and we’re ultimately able to all benefit from that shorter supply chain. Having [a] variety of crops here where it isn’t just a single variety that if it’s impacted by disease, or other things, that creates risk,” Sasser said. “It helps us create a diversity in the food system that’s really important and brings us back to our roots.”
Southern peas are the star of the show.
“It’s really great produce and the flavor is great, and we want to be able to highlight local,” Sasser said.
You can try some of these climate-resilient crops turned dishes from Union Barbecue. It has pop-ups across Charlotte and offers catering. You can get the crops from Garden Window Farms at the Uptown Farmers Market.
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